beautiful bern
I went to Bern with no expectations whatsoever. I knew almost nothing about it except for a handful of TikTok clips showing locals drifting down a river on their way to work. That couldn’t possibly be real, I thought at the time. But as my first stop in Switzerland, Bern surprised me in every way. I felt safe, at ease, and quietly captivated by a city I hadn’t planned to love.
By chance, I spent a week there during an August heatwave—32 to 33 degrees and unbroken sunshine—which made my discovery of the locals’ love affair with the Aare River all the more special. On my very first evening I wandered to Marzili, the riverside swimming area just below the city, and stopped in my tracks. Thousands of people were streaming along the riverbank, waterproof bags slung over over their shoulders, walking upstream with one purpose: to leap into the glittering current and float back down. I laughed and shook my head in disbelief at the sight, but by the next day I was one of them.
Jumping in at Schönausteg bridge and being carried downstream with hundreds of strangers was exhilarating and oddly grounding. There’s something impossible about holding onto your worldly problems when the river is moving you forward, with people of every age and walk of life drifting alongside you. Some swam fast, others floated lazily with waterproof bags bobbing beside them, but all of us shared the same weightless experience.
Bern wasn’t a city that dazzled me with big-ticket attractions. Instead, it quietly invited me into its rhythm: long swims, unhurried meals, evenings that ended by the river. Floating down the Aare was one of the most unexpectedly joyful experiences I’ve had while traveling, and it left me with a feeling I can’t quite shake. Bern felt like summer distilled into a place—ordinary, but magical and unforgettable.
Swimming in the Aare river
Marzili became my anchor point in the city. I’d spend afternoons swimming, then wander across the road for gelato at Gelateria di Berna. When I went, my order was two small scoops for 4 CHF—coffee (fine, nothing special) and Mare di Berna, a hazelnut and fior di latte combination that was divine. Some evenings I lingered along the riverside paths, watching beach volleyball games or stopping for a drink at Aarebar while the sun dipped low. Looking back across the grass at golden hour, the Bundeshaus rose above the city like a stage backdrop, glowing warmly over the river and Marzili below.
Tips for swimming at in the Aare river
Bring a waterproof bag for your belongings if you plan to float. You can also buy one at some bars and shops on the riverside!
If you’re not bringing a waterproof bag, it’s good to bring another type of flotation device in case you get tired midway.
Lockers are available at Marzili Lounge for 5 CHF (20 CHF deposit). They close at 8 pm in summer.
The Marzili funicular will save you the uphill walk back for 1.50 CHF each way.
Only jump into the river if you are a strong swimmer. The current is fast. If you’re not confident, stick to the Bueberkanal or the swimming pools at Marzili.
Recommended: Walk up to Schönausteg (or Eichholz if you want a longer float) from Marzili, jump in and float down and exit at Bueberkanal! From Schönausteg it’s about a 10-12 minute float down the river.
Old Town
When I wasn’t by the river, I was exploring the old town on foot. Bern’s centre is compact but full of character: arcaded streets, clock towers, and sandstone facades that glow warmly in the afternoon light. Some of my favourite stops were (you can roughly visit these in order — recommend to start from Rosengarten as otherwise it’s an uphill walk):
Rosengarten – the classic postcard view of the old city, wrapped in the bend of the river.
Bear Park – sadly no bears that day, but worth a wander.
Münsterplattform – peaceful gardens with a view down to the dam.
Bärenplatz – lively with a street market when I visited.
Bundeshaus (Parliament Building) – from the terrace you can see Marzili and the surrounding hills; in Bundesplatz next to it, locals played chess beside the fountains.
Zytglogge Clock Tower – one of Bern’s icons, where crowds gather for the hourly chimes.
Kafigturm – another of Bern’s medieval clock towers, slightly less famous but still striking.
And end your walk with a swim at Marzili, it’s only a ~10 minute walk from Kafigturm.
Food
Food in Bern was as comforting as the city itself. I didn’t eat out much to save money, but here are a few places I tried:
Gelateria di Berna – right across from Marzili. I tried coffee (fine, nothing special) and Mare di Berna (hazelnut and fior di latte), which was divine. Two scoops for 4 CHF felt like a bargain.
Lötschberg Restaurant – a cosy spot in the old town where I ordered rösti: golden, crispy, and perfectly Swiss. They’re also known for their fondue and raclette.
Café Travois (Monbijou) – a modern, quiet café where I cooled off with matcha on a sunny afternoon.
Other places I didn’t visit
The Gurten funicular, which everyone says offers the best views of the city.
Eichholz, another swimming spot further down the river from Marzili, looked beautiful too, though I never made it there.
